Monday, June 30, 2014

Please, come have some tea - Travels in Morocco

“Whereas the tourist generally hurries back home at the end of a few weeks or months, the traveler belonging no more to one place than to the next, moves slowly over periods of years, from one part of the earth to another. Indeed, he would have found it difficult to tell, among the many places he had lived, precisely where it was he had felt most at home.” 
― Paul BowlesThe Sheltering Sky




Unlike Paul Bowles, I have a regular job that roots me in one place. Granted I do get generous vacation time, but I have to reluctantly confess to being a tourist and not a traveler as described by Bowles in his novel The Sheltering Sky.  Morocco is one of many countries I have been to where I could easily see transforming from a tourist to a traveler. Many places in the world seem the same now with restaurant, retail and hotel chains; for some people this is reassuring and makes travel more comfortable for them.  However, for me that is disappointing.  Morocco felt genuine and authentic, even in the short 12 days I was able to be there and the few restaurant chains I spotted.

I went to Morocco for a Morocco Explorer Multi-sport trip through Mountain Gurus that included 3-days mountain biking through Berber Villages, climbing Mt Toukal the highest Peak in North Africa at 13, 671 feet, followed by a camel ride in the the Sahara for an overnight stay.  The majority of the time was spent in the High Atlas mountains - not nearly enough time to explore the country, but enough time to know I want to go back.

The group was small with a variety of experience, just five which included the owner of the outfitting company plus a Moroccan guide.  The first day was an adjustment to the time zone and to get a feeling for the country.  We had a tour of Marrakesh that included the many vibrant souks that specialized in carpets, metal work, shoes, olives and clothing.  Followed by three days of biking up the Toubkal Valley on dirt roads through Berber Villages.  We were invited in for Moroccan tea many times by families -  Moroccan tea is a mint, green tea with a lot of sugar and is consumed all day.

The group transitioned in Imlil, 5,200 ft, from biking to hiking.  After a night at an auberge we headed up the Toubkal Valley to the refuge at 10,350 ft.  The refuge is open year around and is popular with Europeans for back country skiing in the winter.  Early the following morning we had our tea and breakfast and headed up Jebel Toubkal.  The climb is not a technical climb, there are a lot of scree fields and loose rock.  Everyone in the group summited - at a variety of different paces.  The next morning we packed up early and walked back to Imlil, on the way down we stopped at a carpet shop and ended up each buying a Moroccan carpet.  

Back to Marrakesh for dinner, for our group that was pizza and coke at a cafe on the second floor that allowed for a dynamic view of the Jemaa el Fna where there are snake charmers and story tellers during the day and performers at night and fresh orange or grapefruit juice anytime of day.

Again an early morning, we piled into a van for the 9.5 hour drive to Zagora - the town we would travel from to ride camels in the Sahara.  The drive, while very long and curvy road, took us through beautiful country side.  We drove over the Tizi n'Tichka pass through the high Atlas mountains and into the Draa Valley.  The Draa valley has not changed much in the past centuries - it is notorious for the figs, apricots, almonds and pomegranates that are grown in the valley in the same way they have been grown for generations by the tribes.  We reached Zagora in the late afternoon, found a herd of camels and rode them through the dunes to the Berber Tent camp for sunset and sunrise viewing.  A quick note on camel riding - it looks a lot more interesting in the photos then in reality.  Camels stink, they spit, they carry diseases, and their gait is awkward to ride plus they amble along at a slow pace.  


Marrakesh market - spices
Marrakesh market - metal working
Marrakesh market - olives!
Marrakesh market - dates and nuts
Marrakesh - Jemaa el Fna, snake charmers
Atlas Mountains - views from the bike ride
Atlas Mountains - views from the bike ride
home stay - dinner
Bike break - our bike guide serves us tea at a Berber home.
View of the Atlas Mountains and Berber Villages from the bike.
High Atlas Mountains - trail up the Toubkal valley to the refuge.
Toubkal Valley refuge - 10, 350 feet
Post hike tea at Toubkal refuge
Jebel Toubkal - 13,671 feet
Camel riding in the Sahara - just outside of Zagora
Ait Benhaddou UNESCO Kasbah
Marrakesh - Majorelle Garden


Morocco is a moderate country in both their political views and religion, they have managed to steer clear of the Arab Spring uprisings.  Morocco is primarily Islamic, a majority of the women wear had scarves and long dresses, not a lot of full burkas.   I felt safe traveling in Morocco, I did not don a headscarf but I did dress modestly - at least from a western perspective it was modest.  I look forward to traveling back to Morocco and getting to know the culture better.  أنتل و ميت عجين.




Sunday, June 22, 2014

Haiti 2014 - Medical Student Mission: Learning Through Experience



Medical Student Missions - volunteering experience as a non-medical person


pharmacy line at the hospital

You are going where???  Why?  You are not a doctor, or a medical student, what are you going to do there?  These are the questions I got from people about the trip to Haiti that I just got back from.  I am not a doctor or in school to become one, I am not even in the medical profession.  I do have interest in public health in developing countries as it relates to infrastructure, sanitation and planning.  I learned about this organization from a friend who has been on six trips with Medical Student Missions as a team leader.  I expressed interest in going on a trip similar to this one; I was drawn by the hands on volunteer experience.  I travel a lot and am interested in travel that is more than just tourism.  When I was informed that being a medical student was not a prerequisite I signed up.  This was just the opportunity I was looking and it turned out to be very rewarding experience.

Before the trip started there were many organizational changes.  The pre-trip emails said to be prepared for camping and setting up a compound when we arrived, the usual lodging for this trip was not available because of a contentious divorce.  There was discussion of canceling the trip.  A few days before the trips departure lodging was secured at a local hotel in Verrettes, the town we were staying in, along with three meals a day.  Whew!  No camping!  As it turned out this seemed to be a very Haitian experience - chaos that works itself out.

The group met up in Fort Lauderdale and flew to Port au Prince.  As we exited the airport we were met with a wall of humidity and heat then lead to a school bus that would take us to Verrettes; a town just under 50,000 people that is somewhat politically stable and was not directly effected by the earthquake.  We arrived at the hotel after dark not knowing what to expect, I think the hotel far exceeded all of our expectations.  It even had air conditioners, which worked periodically.

Neighborhood water well - provided by Rotary International

Monday morning we started the day with a briefing by Dr. William Forgey, known as Doc by everyone, one of the founders and primary organizer of the organization.  Doc covered the basics of how we would set up the clinics each day, common Haitian medical issues, chikungunya fever that was rising at epidemic rates through Haiti and Haitian culture as it relates to medical issues and medicine.  After the briefing we launched right in to seeing people.  At 1:00 pm we set up a clinic at the hotel and started seeing patients, many of whom were employees at the hotel.  I was set up with two other people at the pharmacy and eyeglasses area.  After the patients saw a medical student and were diagnosed they would then come to the pharmacy for something; usually Tylenol and glasses.  We brought 7,000 Tylenol pills down with us.  By Thursday we were out of Tylenol, after donating 3 bottles of 1,000 pills each to the hospital and approximately 900 to a local partner clinic in the area.  The Doc went to the market and bought three more bottles (150 pills) at $50 a bottle to cover the last two days of the clinics.

ready and waiting for us to set up the clinic 
Each morning we would set up clinic in a school or church from 9ish to 3ish; a few medical students worked at the local hospital and a couple students went to the local partner clinic and worked.  Each station had a Haitian interpreter to translate to French or Haitian creole.  It was pretty amazing and inspiring experience for me to be part of this team, to see the confidence grow in the medical students through out the week and Doc’s unlimited energy and compassion for the Haitian people.  The medical, educational and infrastructure need is unlimited in Haiti – I have no illusions that I “helped” but I think this type of experience is not intended to alleviate the need but more to raise awareness of it and have compassion in overwhelming poverty.

primary school just outside of one of the clinics
"Feast God" Holiday 19 June - The Haitians told us
it was the day God abandoned the Haitian people.
Rice fields
Other organizations doing good work in Haiti:
HAS: Hospital Albert Schweitzer



Monday, July 15, 2013

Mount Rainier climbing preparation

Mt Rainier from the Wonderland trail
RAMROD
Mount Rainier Route InformationFor the past three years I have been drawn to Mount Rainier.  Two years ago by bike in the RAMROD event; ride around Mt Rainier in one day.  Last year I circumnavigated Rainier on the Wonderland trail.  This year it will be an attempt to summit Mount Rainier.  Summiting Rainier was not something on my bucket list, not something I was drawn to or even thinking about. When my good friend called me and mentioned she was climbing with a teacher friend of hers and two other women and would I be interested in joining them I instantly knew that this was something I wanted to do.  Our guide would be the amazing Lisa Rust a teacher in HR that has extensive guiding experience.  Lisa has guided over 50 summit climbs up Mt Rainier, many expeditions at McKinley and climbed Everest.  If I was going to do this, she would be the one to go with.  I am honored to be asked to go with this strong group of women. 

There was not a lot of training time from the time I was asked, four weeks.  Mt Rainier is known to be the a climb of endurance.  The mountain is 14, 411 feet.  Time to get serious.

Proposed route:
The route to the summit of Rainier traverses across the Cowlitz Glacier, which is in great shape with few crevasses to navigate around. Ascend Catherdral Gap to the back side of Cathedral Ridge to Ingraham Flats. The traverse to Disappointment Cleaver remains straightforward and is followed up by the climb up the 'shoulder' of the Cleaver, switchbacking up the flanks of the ridge until 12,300'. From here the route takes a new turn and climbs terrain seldom seen, heading south towards Camp Comfort near the top of Gibraltar Rock. This entails a traverse that brings us to a ramp that takes us to terrain just above Camp Comfort at 12,800'. From here there are switchback up moderately angled slopes which encounters few of the steep areas our normal route offers. We then meet up with our old route at about 13,900' for the last 300' to the crater rim.

practicing self arrest at Timberline




















The climbing plan is to go to Muir camp from Paradise, spend the night. Day two from Muir camp to the summit (if all goes well) back to Muir to pick up our stuff and back to Paradise.  With limited time to train and a full time job I loaded my pack up with 30 pounds and hiked up Dog Mountain; 8 miles and 2,800 feet elevation gain and loss. Beautiful way to spend the morning - but I literally put 30 lbs weight in my bag and with out the weight distribution it was quite uncomfortable.  

My second training preparation was to climb Mt Adams and practice some rope work on the way up.  Early Friday morning we packed our bags and headed up Adams.  On the way up we practice rope work, learned that the rope is what you use to communicate with, practiced right amount of slack, keeping the rope on the down hill side and how to turn; drop rope step over, turn, switch ice axe hand and move the rope behind you up hill out of the way of the person behind you and to do all this while still moving.   We had a successful summit of Adams with a peak at the base of Mt Rainier, the top was in the clouds.  The Mt Adams summit was confidence building for the up coming Mt Rainier adventure.  

I am feeling respectfully excited and nervous about the upcoming summit attempt, hope the good weather holds.

View of Mt Rainier from summit of Mt Adams
More Information:
Mount Rainier Climbing - blog
Climbing Mt Rainier - Backpacking magazine
Yes you can climb Mt Rainier - Outside Magazine

Saturday, July 13, 2013

Mountain Biking the North Rim of the Grand Canyon


North Rim of the Grand Canyon
Five day mountain bike ride trip on the north rim of the Grand Canyon.  

This past December in the middle of winter I signed up for a mountain bike adventure. I was dreaming of dry heat and expansive views; completely opposite conditions of where I was at that moment.  Winter was quickly over, spring flew by and next thing I knew I was packing for a mountain bike trip in the southwest.  The plan was to drive to St George where the trip started and finished. Early Saturday morning, fully caffeinated, we loaded the truck up with bikes, camping gear and hit the road.  This was a going to be a reasonable road trip, the group I was traveling with decided to break the drive to St George up into two days.

We stopped for the night in Twin Falls Idaho.  After dinner we worked off our steak dinner by walking across the Perrine Bridge, turns out this is one of the few bridges in the US that allows base jumping.  We were lucky enough to witness a base jumper jump.   

Sunday early evening we arrived in St George and it was hot hot hot; the air felt like a hair dryer blowing on high heat on us.  Luckily, our bike rides would be at greater altitudes between 7,500 and 8,900 feet with expected temperatures in the 70 and 80's.  

Day 1:  We met up with our guides and group.  The van was loaded up and we drove to the Kaibab National Forest for a quick shakedown ride to lunch followed by a fun singletrack through aspen and ponerosas pine groves on the Arizona Trail with views of the east rim.  The ride ended at our camp site with expansive views from the north rim of the canyon.  We settled in our camp up for the next two nights.

Day 2:  Woke to a beautiful sunrise soon after the guide yells out COFFEE; very nice start to the day.  We rode about 25 mile out and back on the Arizona trail; lots of short climbs and descents and rode in and out of meadows.  Back at camp we relaxed with happy hour and yummy appetizers, chatted with the other guest.  There were 7 of us; two retired guys from Montana that had a long history of biking, a woman doctor from Alaska and us; my friend from HR, her sister and step dad.  

Day 3:  Transition day.  Pack up camp.  Drove to the Grand Canyon National Park for a hike and visit to the impressive Grand Canyon Lodge located on the edge of the extensive north rim of the canyon.  After exploring the Lodge and trails we headed towards the new camp site with a dirt road ride. The camp site  was on the Rainbow Rim Trail with expansive views of the canyon.


Day 4: The Rainbow Rim Trail was designed for mountain bikers and the inclines and descents are not more than 9% grade.  For me, riding on the this trail was rock star cross country mountain bike riding.  The trail closely follows the rim at some points the trail is right on the rim with indescribable amazing views.  After breakfast and packing a lunch we did an out and back ride to the north with lunch at the turn around point.  Back at the camp site we hiked around, test rode other peoples bike and the guides gave a mt bike skills clinic. After dinner we played a competitive game of traveling boccie ball.
Day 5: Final day.  Early morning sunrise walk to admire the light changing on the canyon walls, coffee, breakfast and then camp pack up; good living!  Last day of riding we rode the Rainbow Rim Trail to the southern end; great cross country riding with stunning views of the canyon. 



Two day drive back to HR, happy, fun trip and not ready to be home yet.  I am inspired to go back to Grand Canyon for more exploration; I see a Rim to Rim hike in my near future.  
More information: Western Spirit
Grand Canyon





Monday, July 1, 2013

Kokanee Glacier Ski Trip - Feb 2013


7 Day ski touring in the Canadian Kokanee Glacier National Park


WOW!  I would have never have thought I would be invited on a back country ski trip in Canada.  I know many really good skier that go on these trips annually.  I just get to see the photos and hear the stories of their adventures.  Of course I would never be invited, I didn't ski.  I didn't grow up skiing or come from a ski family.  I learned to snow board over 10 years, but didn't love it.  What I liked was to be out in the back country exploring.  Four years ago I made the investment, I bought back country gear a season pass and started skiing.  It was not pretty, but I kept at it; Wallowas hut trip, ski clinics, lots of days alone building my confidence.  When I got the email asking if I wanted to go on this trip my first thought was there must be a mistake.  While I can now ski, I am not killing anything on the slopes, I do love to be out in the back country and to climb. 


In February 2013 I drove to Nelson BC with a bunch of skiers loaded our gear into a helicopter and the adventure began.  It was an amazing, challenging, exilerating and fun seven days in the back country.  Each day after breakfast we would venture out into the Kokanee Glacier National Park for skiing adventures.  Before dark we made our way back to the cabin for a few beers and amazing dinners, we repeated this six more times. 


view from the deck of the cabin - scoping our routes












  •  crossing the Kokanee Glacier
  • repeater on the Kokanee Glacier
  • old Kokanee Chief cabin












  • packed up and ready for the helicopter pick up








More Information:
Avalanche information

Fun youtube video - different trip same location